Saigon Attractions #17 Pho Binh: The Secret Headquarters of the Vie...

Naming a noodle soup shop as an attraction is more than a little unusual on the face of it,but this is no ordinary “pho shop.” Travel up Hai Ba Trung and walk into to Ly Ching Thang, just before the river. Inside the street on the left hand side at number 7, you’ll find Pho Binh. There is little or nothing to separate this from any other pho shop in Saigon. It is only when you ask the owner, that things become clearer. I ordered my bowl of Pho and then said simply, “Famous shop, yes?” The man smiled, walked to the back of the shop and returned with a photo album and a guest book. He then said, “After you eat, do you want to see upstairs?” I did.

There is little evidence to suggest the history behind arguable the most famous pho shop in Saigon
The shop was the headquarters of the F100 Viet Cong as they planned the Tet offensive against the Americans, in what is known here as The American War. It is only 200 yards from what was the American Military Police Station. Police and serving American GIs would sit eating soup, whilst ten feet above their heads, plans were being drawn up to attack. They always say that the best hiding place is in open view, this was about as cheeky as it gets. They had a shrine for Buddhists to worship. The secret papers of the F100 cell were hidden behind it. Every time the South Vietnamese knelt in prayer the Viet Cong were metaphorically giving them the finger.

Pho, greens and a whole lot of history
The upstairs room is fascinating. It has been left as it was back in the war days. The main man then was the restaurant owner, a guy called Ngo Toai. His wooden bed is still there, as is the very table upon which the plans of the Tet Offensive were drawn. It’s a fascinating glimpse into history. Photographs line the wall of the men and women involved.

The secret headquarters of the F100 Viet Cong cell
One gets the idea that if positions were reversed and it had been a restaurant in America, duping enemy forces, it would now be something of a theme park. Pho Binh does absolutely nothing to advertise its history. A plaque in Vietnamese on the outside of the shop and a certificate inside pays little more than a nodding homage to the important role it played back in the day. I thought it fascinating and a really interesting way to spend an hour. Oh! And the pho was excellent!

!steemitworldmap 10.790955 lat 106.687092 long Pho Binh D3SCR

For other Saigon attractions see also:

#1 Suoi Tien Theme Park @inseasia/attractions-in-ho-chi-minh-city-suoi-tien-theme-park

#2 Vinh Nghiem pagoda@inseasia/saigon-attractions-vinh-nghiem-pagoda

#3 Notre Dame Basilica @inseasia/saigon-s-magnificent-notre-dame-basilica

#4 The Cu Chi Tunnels @inseasia/saigon-attractions-4-the-cu-chi-tunnels

#5 The Municipal Theatre of Ho Chi Minh City @inseasia/saigon-attractions-5-the-municipal-theatre-of-ho-chi-minh-city

#6 People’s Committee Building @inseasia/saigon-attractions-6-people-s-committee-building

#7 Museum of Vietnamese History @inseasia/saigon-attractions-7-museum-of-vietnamese-history

#8 The Reunification Palace @inseasia/saigon-attractions-8-the-reunification-palace

#9 The War Remnants Museum @inseasia/saigon-attractions-8-the-war-remnants-museum

#10 Nguyen Hue @inseasia/saigon-attractions-10-nguyen-hue